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Six hundred kilometres across the South China Sea from Peninsular Malaysia, the two East Malaysian states of Sarawak and Sabah occupy the northwest flank of the island of Borneo (the rest of which, save the enclave of Brunei, is Indonesian Kalimantan). Sarawak is the larger of the two states, and a more different place to Peninsular Malaysia is hard to imagine. Clear rivers spill down the jungle-covered mountains and the surviving rainforest, plateaux and river communities are inhabited by indigenous peoples - traditionally grouped as Land Dayaks, Sea Dayaks or Orang Ulu. They make up around half of the state's population and some still live in massive longhouses. A typical longhouse is made from brick or timber and might have one hundred doors - representing the number of families living there. Visits to these longhouses are one of the highlights of a trip to Sarawak. However, don't expect these longhouse communities to be living some kind of "primitive" lifestyle: almost all longhouses have electricty now and that of course means radio, televisions, if not yet computers. Few of the inhabitants wear traditonal dress, but this takes nothing away from the enjoyment of being among these people; their warmth, hospitality and humour remain legendary despite the passing of many traditions. Most people start their exploration of Sarawak in the capital Kuching , from where you can visit Iban longhouses on the Batang Ai river system, Bidayuh dwellings near the Indonesian border, and Bako National Park . A four-hour boat ride north of Kuching, Sibu marks the start of the popular route along Batang Rajang, Sarawak's longest river. Most people stop at Kapit and from there visit longhouses on the Katibas and Baleh tributaries. North of Sibu, Niah National Park boasts a vast cave system and accessible forest hikes. On its way north to the Brunei border, the road goes to Miri , from where you either fly, or take a boat, via Marudi, to the spectacular Gunung Mulu National Park , Sarawak's chief natural attraction, which features astonishing limestone pinnacles, numerous caves and undiscovered passageways. Travelling in Sarawak can be expensive: flights from Peninsular Malaysia are costly, although three-flight deals around the state are an appealing option . Also, accommodation and internal travel - much of it by boat - are pricier than on the mainland.
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