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KUALA LIPIS , 170km northeast of KL, was once a vibrant tin-town and from 1898 to 1955 served as the state capital of Pahang, but today it's an inconsequential place, of interest to tourists mainly as a transit point en route to Kenong Rimba State Park. Both train and bus stations are very central, close to the town's inexpensive hotels. The jetty - from where boats leave on Saturdays for Kenong Rimba State Park - lies 50m northeast of the market on Jalan Jelai. There are two tourist information offices , both offering much the same services. One is a private concern (tel 09/312 3277; Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 9am-1pm), tucked away on the left of the train station exit, opposite the ticket booth; the other is just outside the station (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 9am-1pm; tel 09/312 5032). The most atmospheric place to stay is the Government Rest House, on Jalan Bukit Residen (tel 09/312 7284; $10-15), which has twenty en-suite rooms with air-con or fan; the furniture is a bit old, but all the rooms are large and clean and the surrounds are stately. The budget options are in the town centre, mostly on Jalan Besar heading east from the bus station. Try Gin Loke at 64 Jl Besar (tel 09/312 1388; under $5) or next-door Hotel Lipis (tel 09/312 3142; under $5), run by Appu, a trekking guide; there's a spotless dorm (RM7), a range of rooms with shared showers and Internet facilities.
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