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A thirty-minute ride by fishing boat from Marang takes you to PULAU KAPAS , less than 2km in length and one of the nicest islands off the east coast. Coves on the western side are accessible only by sea or by clambering over rocks, but you'll be rewarded by excellent sand and aquamarine water. Like many of its neighbours, Kapas is a designated marine park, the best snorkelling being around rocky Pulau Gemia, just off the northwestern shore, while the northernmost cove is ideal for turtle-spotting. The only accommodation is at the two western coves that directly face the mainland. The best value is Zaki Beach Chalet (tel 010/619 5258; $5-10), which has comfortable A-frames, and its restaurant is definitely the place to be in the evenings. Close by, the welcoming Pulau Kapas Garden Resort (tel 010/984 1686; $10-15) has more luxurious rooms and a dive shop (courses start from RM950). A wooden walkway over the rocks leads to the jetty in the next bay and to the Kapas Island Resort (tel 09/623 6110; $25-40), exclusive Malay-style chalets with a swimming pool and extensive watersports facilities. Next along is the ramshackle Beauty Island (tel 011/971958; $10-15). The Le Village (tel 09/624 6090; $25-40) is a much better operation, and the most basic place is the Lighthouse (tel 09/618 1529; $10-15), which has dorm beds (RM10) with only a well shower.
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