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The tiny coastal village of MARANG , 17km south of Kuala Terengganu, has long attracted a steady trickle of foreign visitors, drawn to the place by the promise of "old Malaysia", as well as the delights of nearby Pulau Kapas, 6km offshore. There's a handful of guesthouses and batik shops here, but nothing much else. Any Dungun- or Rhu Muda-bound bus (every 30min) from Kuala Terengganu will drop you on the main road at Marang, from where the centre is a short walk down one of the roads towards the sea. The ferry companies running boats over to Pulau Kapas (RM15 return) have their offices on the main road. Mid-morning is the usual departure time but there is no service during the monsoon (Nov-Feb). One of the best places to stay is the Green Mango Inn (tel 09/618 2040; under $5), a real traveller's hangout a little south of town, with a dorm (RM6) and very basic A-frame doubles. The Island View Resort (tel 09/618 2006; under $15) has a range of rooms, including air-con doubles, while the Marang Guest House up on the hill (tel 09/618 1976; $5-15) has nice cabins, and some A-frames with an excellent vantage point over the ocean.
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