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The village of RANTAU ABANG , 43km from Marang, is no more than a collection of guesthouses strung out along two kilometres of dusty road, but it has made its name as one of a handful of places in the world where the increasingly rare giant leatherback turtle comes to lay its eggs, returning year after year between May and September to the same beaches. Specific nesting areas and hatcheries have been established on the beach, fenced off from the curious human beings. When the hatchlings have broken out of their shells, they are released at the top of the beach (4-6am), and their scurry to the sea is supervised to ensure their safe progress. Visitors are asked to keep at least 5m away and not to use torches and camera flashes. The guesthouses will arrange for you to be woken during the night if one is sighted, for a fee of RM3. For interesting background, visit the Turtle Information Centre (May-Aug daily 8am-12.45pm, 2-6pm & 8-11pm, except Fri 9am-noon & 3-11pm; Sept-April Sat-Wed 8am-12.45pm & 2-4pm, Thurs 8am-12.45pm, Fri closed; free), to the north of the central two-kilometre strip. Local buses from Kuala Terengganu and Marang run every thirty minutes (7.30am-6pm; 1hr) to Rantau Abang. If you're coming by express bus from the south, you have to change at Dungun, 13km to the south, from where you can easily get a local bus for the remainder of the journey. Buses drop you on the main road, at the R&R Plaza, just a short walk from all the accommodation. There are surprisingly few accommodation options, all of them close to the beach. Prices rise dramatically when the turtles are in town (May-Sept), and the prices refer to the high-season rate. Dahimah's Guest House (tel 09/845 2843; under $25), 1km south of the information centre, offers a range of rooms, from comfortable fan doubles to riverside air-con family rooms. Awang's (tel 09/844 3500; $5-15), right by the information centre, is friendly and has a variety of simple rooms, but is a little rundown and the air-con chalets are overpriced. Ismail's (tel 019/983 6202; $5-10), next door, is very basic and not as clean. All guesthouses have their own restaurants (closed Nov-Jan). In addition, there are food stalls near Awang's, and the excellent Kedai Makan Rantau Abang, 750m further south.
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