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The best place on the islands for turtle-watching is undoubtedly Three Coves Bay on the north coast of PERHENTIAN BESAR . A stunning conglomeration of three beaches, separated from the main area of accommodation by rocky outcrops and reached only by speedboat, it provides a secluded haven between May and September for green and hawksbill turtles to come ashore and lay their eggs. Most of the accommodation on Perhentian Besar is on the western half of the island and tends to be more upmarket than on Kecil. The beach improves as you go further south and the atmosphere is slightly more laid-back than at Long Beach. The best snorkelling beach (and it's not privately owned despite signs up saying "only patrons can use our facilities") is just to the north in front of the Perenthian Island Resort. There is more accommodation on Flora Bay, the island's south beach, reached via a trail from Abdul's. Abdul's (tel 010/983 7303). Fronting one of the best strips of beach, with some basic rooms in a longhouse as well as some costlier ones with shower. This is one of the best places at the low end of the price spectrum. $5-10. Coco Hut (tel 019/910 5019). Inexpensive, waterless A-frames on the beach front. $5-10. Coral View (tel 010/903 0943). Located on a rocky outcrop, these tastefully designed and very well furnished chalets are the best accommodation on either island, ranging from well-designed doubles with shower to hotel-style en-suites with air-con, minibar and hot water. The restaurant is also worth the outlay. $25-80. Cozy Chalets (tel 09/697 7703). Built on a headland which separates the beach north and south, this has smart, carpeted chalets built two by two up on the rocks. There's also a scenic restaurant. $10-15. IBI's (tel 010/910 6244). Large, clean but slightly ramshackle chalets set on an excellent beach in semi-detached pairs, two to a bathroom. There's a book exchange, a good restaurant and email facilities, but the rooms themselves are a little better at Abdul's. $5-10. Mama's Place Pastel-coloured chalets by the beach and cheaper ones behind. Rather regimented, this large operation, the only inexpensive option north of Cozy Chalets, has decent doubles, with or without plumbing $5-20. Paradise Chalets (tel 010/981 0930). Similar and nextdoor to Mama's, the double chalets here are functional enough but a little expensive and rather crudely laid out. $15-20. Samudra Beach Chalets (tel 010/983 4929). Pleasant bungalows and smaller, less expensive A-frames, all with plumbing, set on the remote Flora Bay. $10-15.
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