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PULAU PERHENTIAN , just over 20km off the northeastern coast, is actually two islands - Perhentian Kecil (Small Island) and Perhentian Besar (Big Island). Both are textbook tropical paradises, neither more than 4km in length. Not surprisingly, they are a popular getaway for KL and Singaporean weekenders (especially in August), and see a regular stream of backpackers. Life here is delightful, with only flying foxes, monkeys and lizards for company. Neither island boasts a raging nightlife, as there's no alcohol in most places, but local people seem to have no objection to you bringing your own. Don't be tempted to bring drugs, though - there are frequent police road checks on the way to the islands. Activities include snorkelling trips around the islands (RM30 - though you can hire your own gear for RM15 a day) and dive courses (RM750 four-day open water course, fun dives RM85). The harsh east-coast monsoon means that the islands, reached by slow and unsophisticated fishing boats from Kuala Besut, are frequently inaccessible between November and January.
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