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The tiny Muslim metropolis, KUALA TERENGGANU , 160km south of Kota Bharu, is a traditional place set on an estuary, with dozens of craft workshops and an exceptional cultural museum complex, the new Istana Tengku Long Museum (daily 9am-5pm; Fri closed noon-3pm; RM5), which is set in landscaped gardens 3km west of the centre. The main building displays exquisite fabrics and crafts, and details the history of Terengganu. Elsewhere in the compound, you'll find a fine exhibit of Koranic calligraphy, two traditional sailing boats, a small Maritime Museum and some reconstructed ancient timber palaces. The supreme example of these is the Istana Tunku Long, originally built in 1888 with a high pointed roof and wooden gables fitted with twenty gilded screens, intricately carved with Koranic verses. The museum is easily reached by the regular Losong minibus (20min; 50 sen) from the local bus station. At the west end of Kuala Terengganu, Jalan Bandar forms the centre of Chinatown , where you'll find the excellent Teratai, no.151, selling local arts and crafts. Kuala Terengganu's Central Market (daily 6am-6pm), a little further down on the right, close to the junction with Jalan Kota, also deals in batik, songkets and brassware. For other good craft buys, check out the small brassware workshop (daily 8.30am-6pm) on Jalan Ladang in the east of town. Ky Enterprises, about 3km due south of the centre on Jalan Panji Alam, is a good place to watch the mengkuang style of weaving , using pandanus leaves to make bags, floor mats and fans; take minibus #12, #15, #26 or #13c (60sen) for the fifteen-minute ride from the local bus station. In neighbouring Pasir Panjang, about 500m west of Jalan Panji Alam, Abu Bakar bin Mohammed Amin on Lorong Saga, is a kris maker (call to make an appointment; tel 09/622 7968); take minibus #12 from the local bus station and get off at the sign marked "Sekolah Kebangsaan Psr. Panjang". You can catch traditional dance shows at the Gelanggang Seni cultural centre, a two-kilometre walk or trishaw ride southeast from the centre, facing the town's beach, Pantai Batu Buruk (Fri & Sat 5-7pm & 9-11pm, except during Ramadan; free).
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