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If you decide to visit the caves alone, you'll find the locals are more than happy to point you in the right direction or lead the way for a small tip. Buses and sawngthaews ply Route 13, or you could hire a tuk-tuk from near the market. Across the river from the town proper, Chinese-made tractors act as shared taxis; just flag them down like a bus. Six kilometres west of Vang Viang, Tham Phou Kham makes a rewarding half-day trip that takes in some fine scenery. Cross the river by the bamboo footbridge near the Nam Song Hotel and follow the road to Na Thong, 4km west. Hop the fence at the bend in the road just past the village school house (if you're on a bike, leave it at the tam mak hung stall here) and walk through the rice fields towards the cliff face, 1km away. Cross the bizarrely arched bamboo bridge to reach the path leading to the cave. It's a short steep climb to the entrance, extremely slippery in the rainy season. In the main cavern reclines a bronze Buddha; bring a torch if you want to explore the tunnels branching off the main gallery. Outside the cave, the perfectly blue stream is a great spot for a swim; you can buy cool drinks and fruit nearby. A descent into Tham Pha Thao is the most satisfying caving trip you can make from Vang Viang. Stretching for more than 2km, the tunnel-like cave is pitch-black and filled with huge stalactites and stalagmites. It's best visited near the end of the rainy season, when the water level is perfect for a swim in the subterranean swimming pool 800m into the cave. Bear in mind that you'll be up to your chest in water at times - so travel light and don't bring anything valuable. In the height of the dry season, it's possible to go beyond the pool and explore the full length of the cave. Finding the cave is a matter of getting to the Hmong village of Pha Thao , which lies 13km north of Vang Viang. Turn left after the bridge just beyond the Km10 marker on Route 13 - a road sign points the way to the "Nam Xong-Pha Thao Irrigation Project" - and either ford the river or hail a pirogue for a few thousand kip. (This is a good launching point for tubing.) Once across, head for the village at the base of the cliff, where you'll find a few simple restaurants. The villagers will point the way to the cave mouth.
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