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You could be forgiven for thinking that you'd crossed the Vietnamese border on descending into XAM NUA , one of the few Lao outposts east of the Annamite Mountains. Flung out across the narrow Nam Xam River valley, Xam Nua's low-slung houses and dreary, institutional-looking buildings, bear the unmistakeable mark of the Vietnamese, who cobbled this town back together after the war. There's little to occupy the traveller here, but it's a departure point for Viang Xai and the Pathet Lao caves. Buses offload in the dirt lot on the town's main street, just beyond the junction where Route 6 swings sharply east to cross the river en route to Viang Xai and the town's airport. If you've arrived at the airport , 3km away, one of the town's two taxis (2000K) will most likely be on hand to shuttle you to a hotel. There's an English-speaking staff member in the provincial tourist office (Mon-Fri 8am-noon & 1-4pm), located in the small building at the front of the government compound. Exchange services are available at Alounmay Bank's Xam Nua branch, further up the street towards the wat, near the bend in the road. The two best hotels are located around the corner from the bus station, near the bridge over the Nam Xam River. The Lao Houng (tel 064/312028; under $5), a large, squat, grey building, has some rooms with hot shower. Better value is the newer and friendly Khaem Xam (under $5), a narrow three-storey building, with six rooms and hot showers, some en suite. Most restaurants shut down or are out of food by 8pm. The Khaem Xam, next to the hotel of the same name, is the best restaurant in town, with a range of dishes and an English-language menu.
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