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Difficult to reach and short on proper tourist sites, the remote northeast is one of the least-visited parts of Laos. This area was heavily bombed during the Second Indochina War, and much of the bombing was directed at the strategic Plain of Jars , which takes its name from the fields of ancient, giant funerary urns that are the northeast's main tourist draw. Indeed, for most visitors a trip to the region means a flying visit to the town of Phonsavan to see the nearby Jar sites. The region's other significant sight are the dozens of caves at Viang Xai , close to the Vietnam border, which served as the homes and headquarters for the Pathet Lao during their Thirty Year Struggle; very few travellers make it here however, and those who do face a long and convoluted journey via the town of Xam Nua . At present, the only way to get to the region is by flying to Xam Nua or Phonsavan, or travelling the circuitous overland route through Louang Phabang province; none of the northeast's four principal borders with Vietnam are yet open, and Route 7 between Muang Phoukhoun and Phonsavan remains unpaved and unsafe because of bandits. An upgrade of this 140-kilometre stretch of road, however, is currently underway, which will dramatically reduce travel times from Louang Phabang and Vientiane. For the time being, however, you'll need to allow two to three days to get from Louang Phabang to Phonsavan or Xam Nua by road : always try to leave on the earliest possible vehicle, bring extra water and food, and be prepared for breakdowns.
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