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Buddha Caves and Whisky Village





A popular river excursion, some 25km out of Louang Phabang, is centred around the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Ou rivers, known as Pak Ou. Numerous caves punctuate the limestone cliffs here, the best-known of which are the " Buddha Caves " Tham Ting and Tham Phoum. These caves have been used for centuries as a repository for old and unwanted Buddha images that can no longer be venerated on an altar, and the hundreds upon hundreds of serenely smiling images covered in dust and cobwebs make an eerie scene. Tham Ting , the lower cave, just above the water's surface, is more of a large grotto and is light enough to explore without artificial light. The upper cave is unlit so bring a torch, or better still, a handful of candles to enhance the spooky effect. A small entrance fee is collected at the lower cave.

On the opposite bank of the river is a village that for thousands of years produced stoneware jars but has now found that distilling liquor is more lucrative. The inhabitants of Ban Xang Hai, referred to by English-speaking boatmen as the Whisky Village , are quite used to thirsty visitors stopping by for a pull on the bamboo

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straw. The liquor is made from fermented sticky rice and pots filled with the hooch are lined up on the beach awaiting transport up or down the river. Both sites can be seen in a couple of hours, and boatmen hired in Louang Phabang usually treat it as a package, assuming that after you've seen a cave-full of Buddhas you'll be ready for a good, stiff drink. Boats are easily arranged in Louang Phabang and should cost $20 to hire for the trip there and back. The ride upriver takes less than an hour.


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12/2/2008 2:41:46 AM

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