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If you have an hour or so to spare, there's a very pleasant woodland hike in the hills immediately west of Tsuwano Station. Head south and cross the train tracks at the first opportunity, then double back and continue to the car park, from where a footpath leads up to the cosy chapel Maria Seido , nestling in a leafy glade. In 1865, the Tokugawa shogunate transported some 150 Christians from Nagasaki to Tsuwano; 36 were eventually put to death for their beliefs before the new Meiji government bowed to international pressure, lifting the ban on the religion in 1874. This chapel was built in 1951 to commemorate the martyrs, and the quaint wooden building is the scene of the Otometoge festival on May 3, when pilgrims from across Japan celebrate an outdoor Mass. From the chapel a series of wooden signs count down the stations of the Cross along the Via Dolorosa footpath , winding up the hillside. The path emerges from the forest onto a wider dirt track leading downhill to the charming temple of Kakuozan Yomei-ji (daily 8.30am-5pm; Y300). Stone steps lead up to the elegant collection of wooden, thatched buildings, used by generations of Tsuwano lords since 1420. Inside, look out for the lovely screen paintings decorating some of the tatami rooms, and take a moment to sit and admire the verdant traditional garden. From the temple it's around a fifteen-minute walk back to Tsuwano Station.
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