The Inland Sea
"They rise gracefully from this protected, stormless sea, as if they had just emerged, their beaches, piers, harbors all intact? Wherever one turns there is a wide and restful view, one island behind the other, each soft shape melting into the next until the last dim outline is lost in the distance."
- Donald Richie, The Inland Sea , 1971. It's difficult to improve on American author Richie's sublime description of the Inland Sea ( Seto Naikai ) and, despite his fears that it would all be ruined in Japan's rush to the 21st century, this priceless panorama has changed remarkably little. Boxed in by the islands of Honshu, Kyushu and Shikoku, and dotted with more than 3000 other islands, the sea is one of Japan's scenic gems, often likened to the Aegean in its beauty. Several islands are now connected by bridges and fast ferries to the mainland, reducing their isolation and much of their charm, but on many others you'll be struck by the more leisurely pace of life and the relative lack of modern-day blight. The most popular islands to head for are Awaji-shima , Ikuchi-jima and Omi-shima , Miya-jima and Shodo-shima , although a host of others are served by ferries and have accommodation and tourist facilities. If you don't have time to linger, consider taking one boat trip across the sea or heading to a vantage point such as Washu-zan or Yashima to look out over the islands. JNTO publishes a fact sheet, detailing several sightseeing cruises, which are expensive for what they offer; you're better off putting together your own itinerary using individual ferry services. If you take a ferry between Kyushu and Kobe, Osaka and Tokyo, you'll pass through the Inland Sea anyway, although check it will be daylight.
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