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Often claimed to be the last free-flowing river in Japan, the Shimanto-gawa actually has one small dam along its 196-kilometre length. This doesn't detract from the wide river's beauty, twisting through verdant countryside past pine-clad slopes and terraced rice fields, splashed with scarlet higanbena flowers in September. This is the place to head for tranquillity and if you want to enjoy boating, canoeing and fishing. Again, having your own transport will help since bus and train services are scarce, and on Sunday there are no buses at all. As a base, you can't go far wrong with the charming Shimantogawa Youth Hostel (tel 0880/54-1352, www.netwave.or.jp/~shimanto ; Y3000-5000), run by a friendly couple and about as far off the beaten track as you could wish for in Shikoku. It sleeps just fifteen people, has good food and a regular programme of canoeing trips down the river from Y5500, full tuition and equipment included. The nearest train station is Ekawasaki on JR's plodding Yodo line, which runs from Kubokawa on the bay side of Kochi-ken, to Uwajima along a very scenic route. From March to November it's possible to ride in open-air carriages ( Torroko Reysha ) for part of the route on most weekends and holidays and almost all of August. From Ekawasaki you'll need to catch a bus (3 daily) to Kuchiyanai, from where the hostel is 4.5km across the river; if you call the hostel manager he will arrange to meet you. It's also possible to catch a bus to Kuchiyanai from Nakamura, on the Tosa Kuroshiro train line to Sukumo .
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