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On the northern coast of Shikoku, breezily cosmopolitan TAKAMATSU , the capital city of Kagawa-ken , is likely to be your first stop on Shikoku. Even before the Seto Ohashi connected Shikoku's rail network with that on Honshu, the city's port was a major gateway into the island. Warlord Chikamasa Ikoma built his castle here in 1588, but the city and surrounding area's history goes back a long way before that. The priest and mystic Kobo Daishi was born in the prefecture, the banished Emperor Sutoku was murdered here in 1164 and, 21 years later, the Taira and Minamoto clans clashed at nearby Yashima . In air raids during World War II, Chikamasa's castle was virtually destroyed, along with most of the city. Today, Takamatsu is a sprawling, yet fairly attractive modern city of 350,000 inhabitants, peppered with covered shopping arcades and designer stores. At the time of research the first stage of the Sunport development, in a prime position facing the Inland Sea, was well underway. This will include new JR and Kotoden train stations, convention and shopping centres, and a luxury hotel and seaside promenade, complete with beach. It's also planned to move the ferry wharves here. As 21st-century as all this is, the city's star attraction remains Ritsurin-koen , one of Japan's most classical, spacious and beautifully designed gardens. The gardens are easily accessible on a day-trip from Honshu, but it's well worth staying overnight so you can also take in Shikoku Mura , the open-air museum of traditional houses at Yashima, or Kotohira-gu , the ancient shrine less than one hour by train west of the city. And, if you're on your way to Kotohira, consider visiting nearby Zentso-ji , the atmospheric temple at the birthplace of Kobo Daishi. Takamatsu is also a gateway to two of the most appealing islands in the Inland Sea: Shodo-shima , a mini-Shikoku with its own temple circuit and scenic attractions; and Nao-shima , home of the imaginative Benesse Island cultural village and contemporary art museum, designed by Ando Tadao.
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