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Around thirty minutes by train north along the coast from Matsuyama is Hojo (JR station Iyo-Hojo), a small fishing port that is the jumping-off spot for KASHIMA , a tiny island park that's a favourite getaway for locals. The island is so close to the mainland you could swim there, but if that doesn't appeal there's a regular ferry (Y300 return). Once on Kashima, you can climb to the summit of Mount Takanawa (986m), a forested hillock, watching out for the wild deer that give the island its name. There are beaches, but they're nothing much to rave about, although the view from the far side of the island out to the shrine Futami-no-Iyo, strung across three rocks, is picturesque. Kashima's basically a place to relax, especially during the week, when you're likely to have it pretty much to yourself save for a few fishermen. The other good reason to come here is the new Hojosuigun Youth Hostel (tel & fax 089/992-4150, www5a.biglobe.ne.jp/~hojo/ ; Y2500 per person), a stone's throw from the ferry landing. A small and appealing place run by the English-speaking Sakate-san, the hostel has both tatami and bunk rooms and you can get fresh fish dinners for Y1000. If you're looking for somewhere quiet, but within easy reach of Matsuyama, this is ideal. The next major town, IMABARI , perched on Shikoku's northwest coast 45km from Matsuyama, is the access point to the larger and more interesting Inland Sea islands of Omi-shima and Ikuchi-jima , via the nearby Kurushima bridge , part of the new Nishi-Seto Expressway linking Honshu to Shikoku. Imabari itself is nothing special, but it does have a rare example of a castle in an open field: Imabari-jo , built in 1602 by local warlord Todo Takatora. The present buildings date from 1980, but are surrounded by the original moat. Inside the castle grounds is an attractive shrine with lots of red-painted torii , while the keep contains a rather musty museum (daily 9am-4.30pm; Y300), displaying armour and painted screens, plus a natural history section with local rocks, embalmed fish and stuffed birds. Maps and booklets on the area are available at the helpful tourist information centre (daily 9am-5pm; no English spoken) inside the JR station.
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