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Some 25km further east along the coast from Imabari is Saijo (JR station Iyo-Saijo), the main access point for ISHIZUCHI-SAN , Shikoku's tallest mountain and a sacred place of pilgrimage. Legend has it that the 1982-metre mountain was first climbed in 682 by En no Ozuno, a yamabushi , or mountain ascetic, while Kobo Daishi undertook the hike in 797. Ishizuchi's temple, Oho-ji , in the valley below the mountain, is the sixtieth on the pilgrimage route. At one time, the mountain was climbed only by male pilgrims - women were strictly forbidden from setting foot on it. This tradition is still upheld for the annual official opening ceremony on July 1, when yamabushi , dressed in white robes and blowing on conch shells, hike up to the shrine at the summit. It is possible to scale the mountain from April, once the winter snow has melted, but the climbing season officially runs from July until the end of August and there are more frequent bus connections to the trails during this time, enabling you to get up and down the mountain in a day, so as long as you set off early from Matsuyama. The Ishizuchi Quasi National Park, in which the mountain stands, was established in 1955 and has several hiking trails, plus limited skiing in the winter. The relatively warm climate means there are trees on the slopes of the mountain, almost to the summit. There's a cable car (times vary throughout year: at least 9am-4pm; Jan-April Mon-Fri 2-6pm, Sat & Sun 9am-5pm; Y1000 one way, Y1900 return) at Nishi-no-Kawa , which cuts out some of the foot-slogging, taking you within three hours' hike of the top. A short walk from the cable car is also a chair lift (Y200 one way, Y450 return), which saves a little bit more effort on the way up to Joju , where you'll find the shrine Ishizuchi-jinja , and several places to eat and buy souvenirs. There are good views from here, if you don't wish to go any further. The 3.5-kilometre route from Joju to the summit is clearly marked and starts by dipping down into a valley before climbing steeply again. Along the way are several spots where kusari , thick metal chains, have been hammered into the rock to help you climb. If this doesn't appeal there's always a marginally easier walking path. Most people stop at the mountain-top shrine (beside which, during the climbing season, is a refreshments hut) but the official summit is the even higher peak of Tengu-dake, approached along a razor-edge ridge, about ten minutes away. If you don't want to retrace your steps, there's an alternative route down the mountain to Tsuchigoya , from where infrequent buses (you might have to change buses at Mimido) run back to Matsuyama. Plenty of trains from Matsuyama go to Iyo Saijo, on the Yosan line, from where it's a 55-minute bus ride (Y970) to Nishi-no-Kawa via the scenic Omogo-kei gorge. Alternatively, the Iyo Tetsu Bus company in Matsuyama at the Shi-eki station offers a return bus ticket, via Tsuchigoya, for Y5120. The one-way fare for the journey is Y2680, and if you want to get to the summit and back in a day you'll need to be on the 8am bus. The last bus back to Matsuyama from Tsuchigoya is at 4.30pm, but double-check this before setting out. Standard Japanese meals , such as noodles and curry rice, are available at various mountain huts and in the tourist restaurants at Nishi-no-Kawa, Joju and Tsuchigoya, but generally you'd do better to pack a picnic and enjoy it at the summit. If you do choose to eat on the mountain, Joyu's Shiraishi Ryokan (tel 0897/59-0032; Y7000-10,000) serves decent food and is also a reasonable place to bunk down in large tatami rooms at Y5000 per person (Y8500 including two meals).
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