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A flat triangular-shaped island, roughly 35km from tip to tip and just 12km at its widest point, the most immediately notable aspect of Miyako-jima is its extensive cultivation of sugar cane. HIRARA , the main town, lies on the island's northwest coast, from where roads fan out through the fields. The lack of hills may tempt you to consider cycling here, but you'd need to be prepared for the heat - a better option is to hire a moped or motorbike since public buses are few and far between. A cash machine accepting foreign cards can be found at Hirara's post office (Mon-Sat 8.45am-7pm, Sun 9am-5pm) and Internet access at both Jammin' and Jazz Bar St Louis in the backstreets of the Izato district. It won't take you more than thirty minutes to tick off Hirara's paltry collection of sights. Around 1km north of the harbour along the coast road you'll find the Ninto Zeiseki (also called the Fukeiseki), a crumbling, 1.4-metre pinnacle of stone. It stands as a monument to the heavy burden of taxes imposed when Kagoshima's Shimazu clan ruled Okinawa - tax was levied on anyone taller than the stone. Returning to town along the same road you'll pass the small shrine Harumizu Utaki , nestling atmospherically amid the foliage. Up the hill from here, beside another shrine, is the Miyako Traditional Arts and Crafts Centre , where you can watch women weaving the delicate Miyako-jofu fabric, designated an Important Intangible Cultural Asset. Finally, tucked away in the side streets back towards the harbour is the weatherworn Hakuai Monument , presented to Hirara by Kaiser Wilhelm of Germany in 1878, in appreciation of the islanders' rescue of sailors from the German ship Robertson , wrecked in a typhoon off Miyako's coast in July 1873. Much more is made of this seminal event in Miyako's history of international relations at the Ueno German Culture Village on the island's southern coast. Hirara has its own beach, Painagama , immediately south of the harbour, but there are much better ones around the island. Top of the list is Maehama , around 10km south of Hirara, a long and remarkably pristine strip of soft white sand that is hailed as Japan's best beach. Naturally, a prime chunk of it has been requisitioned by the swanky Miyako-jima Tokyu Resort (tel 09807/6-2109, fax 6-6781, www.tokyu.co.jp/inn ; Y20,000 and over). Rates are slightly cheaper if you opt for the rooms in the older of the two blocks here, and watersports enthusiasts won't be disappointed by the range of activities on offer. Continuing in an anticlockwise direction around the coast, the next place of note you'll hit is the Disneyland-like Ueno German Cultural Village . It was here that eight German sailors were saved from the wreck of the Robertson , and this kitsch mini-theme park, dominated by replicas of Marksburg castle and a Baroque palace (the annexe of the inevitable attached resort hotel) stand in their memory. Inside the castle is a museum (Tues-Sun 9am-4pm; Y300), which strives to make the most of Miyako's connections with Germany. The best that can be said about the village is that there's a shop selling a wide range of premium bottled beers from Germany. The next beach of note is Boraga , reached by a steep twisting road from Route 390. It's a good spot for snorkelling and kayaking and equipment for both is available from the attractive beachside complex that includes a refreshment hut and a freshwater swimming pool. If you fancy a more substantial lunch, the restaurant next to the missable shell museum on the cliffs above does hearty set menus for under Y1000. Just east of here lies beautiful Higashi Henna-zaki , a two-kilometre-long peninsula renowned for its wild flowers and panoramic views. A trip out to the lighthouse at the very tip is recommended. Heading north up the east side of the island, duck off the coastal road to find the quiet beaches at Aragusuki and Yoshino , both excellent snorkelling spots with corals and a plethora of tropical fish. After this there's little to linger for until you reach the bridge at the far north of the island which connects Miyako with tiny Ikema-jima . Ikema has a lazy fishing port and more deserted beaches and good coral reefs, including the extensive Yaebishi reef exposed annually during the low spring tides. The best reason, however, for detouring here is the Rasa Cosmica Tourist Home (tel & fax 09807/5-2020, www.zu-mi.com/~raza ; Y20,000-30,000), a delightful pension run by the friendly Nakajima family. There's a hippy feel to the beige adobe building, tastefully decorated inside with pieces picked up from the owner's trips around the Indian  © 2003 by Rough Guides Ltd. as trustee for its Authors. Published by Rough Guides. All rights reserved. Rough Guides name is a trademark of Rough Guides Ltd. Buy the book here!
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subcontinent. The five guest rooms are Western style, rates include two organic vegetarian meals and snorkelling equipment and bikes are available for free. It's popular, so booking well in advance is essential. On the way back to Hirara you may well want to pause for yet another lovely beach, Sunayama , 2.5km north of the town. You'll need to climb over several dunes to reach the sea, and it's a good spot to come for sunset which you can view through a naturally eroded stone arch.
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