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The beaches on Okinawa's main island can't compare with the gems lying offshore among the dozens of outer islands that make up the rest of the prefecture. Here, you'll find not only superb, white sands and limpid water, but also magnificent diving - both skin and scuba - which is among the best in Asia . Most of these islands also escaped damage during the battles of 1945, and there are no American bases here, so you'll see much more evidence of Ryukyu culture and the old traditions. Not that they're completely unspoilt; even here the paradise image is punctured by eyesore developments and a good deal of rubbish along the shore, while July and August brings plane-loads of holidaymakers. Fortunately, there's plenty of choice and, outside the main holiday season, few tourists. One of the most accessible islands is Zamami-jima , just a short ferry ride west of Naha, which offers great beaches and diving and has recently become a centre for whale-watching. For a real sense of escape, however, you need to head further south, to Miyako-jima and the Yaeyama group, including the emptier, more mountainous Ishigaki-jima and nearby Iriomote-jima , often described as Japan's last wilderness. In all these islands, it's the scenery and water sports that provide the main attractions, but Iriomote has the added distinction of its unique wildlife population and lush, almost tropical rainforest.
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