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During the long-drawn-out Battle of Okinawa , it was the area south of Naha that saw the worst fighting and received the heaviest bombardment. Not only was the Japanese Naval Headquarters dug deep into the hills here, but also the region's many limestone caves provided shelter for hundreds of Japanese troops and local civilians, many of whom committed suicide rather than be taken prisoner. One of these caves has been preserved as a memorial to the young Himeyuri nurses who died there, and the area is dotted with peace parks and prayer halls. It's not completely devoted to war sights, however. Gyokusendo Kingdom Village , over on the southeast coast, combines a stalactite-filled cave with a rather dubious tourist village dedicated to Ryukyu culture. By far the best way of getting around this area is by car, allowing you the freedom to explore some of the coves and beaches on the east coast. Exploring by bus, on the other hand, involves a lot of waiting for connections. The alternative is to join one of the organized bus tours out of Naha, which pack a lot into a short time at a reasonable price, and come with a practically nonstop Japanese commentary. Four companies offer almost identical southern tours, of which Naha Kotsu (tel 098/868-3750) has the widest choice, running full-day and half-day tours starting from the Tomarin Building in northwest Naha. Both cost Y4800 and cover the same sights, though on the one-day tour you also visit Naha's Shuri-jo ( entrance ticket extra) and stop for lunch (included in the price). You can buy tickets at Naha Kotsu's main office, 1-19-1 Nishi (tel 098/868-3750), or from their counter in the airport's domestic terminal.
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