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North of Okinawa's pinched waist, the scenery begins to improve as classy resort hotels line the western beaches. Bleached-white, coral-fringed Moon beach merges into Tiger beach and then there's the rocky, wild Onna promontory before you rejoin the sands at Manza. Beyond this strip, northern Okinawa 's only major settlement, Nago , sits at the base of the knobbly Motobu peninsula . A generally quiet, workaday place, there's not a lot to see in Nago, but the small city makes a good base for exploring Okinawa's mountainous north. The district boasts the island's most attractive scenery, particularly around Hedo Misaki , the northern cape, and on through sleepy Oku village down the rugged northeast coast. It's possible to travel up the west coast by slow local bus, but you're on your own after Oku.
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