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Once the centre of the Ryukyu kingdom, Okinawa-Honto , or Okinawa Main Island, is a strangely ambivalent place. Locals are fiercely proud of their Ryukyu heritage and yet the competing cultures of Japan and America are far more prevalent. It was these two countries - both of whom invaded and occupied Okinawa - who fought it out on the island's middle and southern reaches in 1945. To some extent, the island still feels like occupied territory, especially central Okinawa, where the American bases and the nearby "American" towns, with their drive-ins and shopping malls, have become a bizarre tourist attraction for mainland Japanese, who come to soak up a bit of American culture. Fascinating though all this is, it doesn't make Okinawa the most obvious holiday destination. However, if you're drawn by the more appealing outer islands , the chances are you'll spend some time on the main island waiting for plane or ferry connections. Okinawa's chief city and the former Ryukyu capital is Naha , whose prime attraction is its reconstructed castle, Shuri-jo , the ruins of which have recently been awarded World Heritage status. There are also some interesting market streets and a pottery village to explore, and you'll want to take advantage of its banks - not to mention excellent bars and restaurants - before heading off to remoter regions. Southern Okinawa saw the worst fighting in 1945, and the scrubby hills are littered with war memorials , particularly around Mabuni Hill, where the final battles took place. North of Naha, the island's central district has little to recommend it, but beyond Kadena the buildings start to thin out. Here you'll find one of the better "Ryukyu culture villages", Ryukyu-mura , and the island's best beaches. The largest settlement in northern Okinawa, Nago is an appealing town which provides a base for exploring this empty, mountainous region. Again there are few specific sights, though the scenery improves dramatically towards Hedo Misaki , Okinawa's north cape, and down the east coast. Long and thin, Okinawa measures just 135km from tip to toe, so you can drive the whole length in a matter of hours. The best way to get around is to rent your own car or motorbike, particularly if you want to explore the northern hills, but remember to bring an international licence. Otherwise most places are accessible by local bus - eventually
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