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Ogi





Sado's second port is tiny OGI , situated near the island's southern tip. This sleepy fishing town is best known for its tub boats, which now bob around in the harbour for tourists, and the annual "Earth Celebration" hosted by the locally based Kodo drummers . But the area's principal attraction is its picturesque indented coastline to the west of town. You can take boat trips round the headland, or cycle over the top to Shukunegi , a traditional fishing village huddled behind a wooden palisade.

The tub boats , or tarai-bune , were originally used for collecting seaweed, abalone and other shellfish from the rocky coves. Today they're fibreglass but still resemble the cutaway wooden barrels from which they were traditionally made. If you fancy a shot at rowing one of these awkward vessels, go to the small jetty west of the ferry pier, where the women will take you out for a ten-minute spin round the harbour (daily 8/9am-4/5pm; Y450 per person). This jetty is also the departure point for sightseeing boats (April-Nov 6-18 daily; 40min; Y1400 return trip) which sail along the coast past caves and dainty islets as far as Sawa-zaki lighthouse. Tickets for both the tarai-bune and tour boats are available from the Marine Terminal building beside the jetty.

Buses run west along the coast as far as Fukaura (5 daily; 20min), but the ideal way to explore the headland is to rent a bicycle . After climbing out of Ogi on the road to Shukunegi, turn right towards a concrete Jizo standing above the trees. The statue itself isn't worth stopping for but continue another 300m along this sideroad and you'll find a short flight of steps leading up to the Iwaseya cave - the old trees and tiny, crumbling temple surrounded by Jizo statues make a good place to catch your breath. Further along the Shukunegi road, next to a still-functioning boatyard, the Sadokoku Ogi Folk Museum (daily: March-Oct 8.30am-5pm; Jan, Feb, Nov & Dec closed Sat, Sun & hols; Y500) is worth a brief stop. It contains a delightful, dusty jumble of old photos, paper-cuts, tofu presses, straw raincoats and other remnants of local life. Behind, in a newer building, there's a relief map of the area and beautiful examples of the ingenious traps used by Ogi fisherfolk.

From here the road drops down steeply to SHUKUNEGI fishing village, tucked in a fold of the hills beside a little harbour full of jagged black rocks. The village

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itself is hardly visible behind its high wooden fence - protection against the fierce winds - where its old wooden houses are all jumbled together with odd-shaped corners and narrow, stone-flagged alleys. Two of the houses are open to the public (April-Oct daily 8.30am-5pm; Y400, including village map), though they're not wildly interesting; tickets and refreshments are available at the soba restaurant (daily: April-Sept 8am-4/5pm; Jan-March & Oct-Dec closed Wed) beside the village car park.


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12/2/2008 6:13:44 PM

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