The City
With its old Assembly Hall, lively market and classy shopping malls, Niigata's western district is an interesting area to explore if you've got a couple of hours to spare. Given more time, however, it's worth trekking out to Yokogoshi village, on the banks of the easterly Agano-gawa, to see the beautifully preserved mansion of a wealthy landowner which is now part of a cultural museum. For the central sights, take a bus bound for Irefune-cho from in front of Niigata Station, to the Hakusan-koen-mae stop (15min; Y170), just across the Shinano-gawa. The gingerbread building beside the park, the Former Prefectural Assembly Hall (daily 9am-4.30pm closed every 2nd & 3rd Mon; free), was built in 1883. Local representatives continued to meet here until 1932 in an impressive hall which is the building's main attraction - sepia photos show Japan's new democracy in action. Walking back to the bus stop, stroll through Hakusan-koen , which contains a shrine to the God of Marriage and various stone monuments, including one to the happiness of pine trees. From here, either get back on a passing Irefune-cho bus or walk northwest along Nishibori-dori for 1km, heading for the landmark Next 21 building - and up to the nineteenth-floor observation lounge for a free view of the city. Though Bandai City is putting up some competition, this area, known as Furumachi , is Niigata's foremost shopping district, though you'll still find some older buildings hidden away in the backstreets. Another relic of the past is the bustling Hon-cho Market (daily 10am-5pm; closed three days a month, usually on Sun), which spreads over a few streets to the south of Masayo-koji. This fresh-produce market, where you can still bargain, is a prime place to look for cheap places to eat . The fertile plains around Niigata supported a number of wealthy landowners who lived in considerable luxury until the Land Reform Act of 1946 forced them to sell all rice land above 7.5 acres per household. One such was the Ito family, whose superb mansion, now the centrepiece of the Northern Cultural Museum (daily 9am-4.30/5pm; Y700), is the largest and most accessible of several such houses around Niigata. It's located in Yokogoshi village, 12km southeast of today's city centre, and can be reached by special express bus from Bandai City or the Eki-mae terminal (4 daily; Y500 one way, or Y1570 return including entry ticket); the last bus back leaves at 3.40pm. The huge house was erected in 1887 and comprises sixty rooms containing family heirlooms, but the classic garden steals the show - viewed from inside it forms a magnificent frieze along one side of the principal guest room.
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