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The eastern side of Matsushima Bay, an area known as Oku-Matsushima , is protected by a large, ragged island, Miyato-jima , linked to the mainland by a road bridge. Apart from a number of sandy beaches, the island's main draw is a low hill, Otakamori , from where you get more panoramic views over the bay. The gateway to Oku-Matsushima is the small town of NOBIRU , fifteen minutes north on the JR Senseki line from Matsushima, which also provides some of the area's cheapest accommodation. The station information office (daily 8.30am-5.30pm; 0225/88-2611) provides maps and can help with reservations, though the staff don't speak English. One of the nicest places to stay around here is the smart Pi-La Matsushima Youth Hostel 0225/88-2220, fax 88-3797; Y3000-5000), with a choice of dormitories or Western-style family rooms, and hearty meals. The hostel lies roughly fifteen minutes' walk from Nobiru Station; cross the bridge and keep heading south towards the sea until you find a right turn signed to the hostel. On the way, you'll pass the Boyo-so (tel 0225/88-2159; Y10,000-15,000 including two meals), the newest of several minshuku scattered in the pine woods south of Nobiru Station. The pine trees stretch all along Nobiru beach, a wide expanse of dark sand which gets packed in summer, but there are better coves further south on Miyato-jima. The best way to explore the island is by bicycle - the youth hostel has bikes for rent (Y500 for 3hr, Y800 per day) and the manager can advise on the best routes. It takes three to four hours to cycle round the whole island, plus an extra thirty minutes to walk up to the viewpoint on top of Otakamori.
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