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For more than one thousand years, pilgrims have been trekking up the slopes of Dewa-sanzan (or, simply, Dewa-san), one of Japan's most sacred mountains. It's an arduous rather than difficult climb, which takes in ancient cedar woods, alpine meadows and three intriguing shrines where yamabushi (mountain ascetics) continue to practise their secret rites. It's best to visit Dewa-san in summer (July to late Sept), when all three shrines are open, but at any time of year you'll find white-clothed pilgrims climbing the well-worn steps to the outer shrine on the summit of Haguro-san . From here the path follows the ridge to Gas-san , the highest peak, before finally descending to the outer shrine, Yudono-jinja , which is in fact a surprising, ochre-yellow rock washed by a hot spring. Though it's possible to complete the circuit in a long day, it's more enjoyable to spread it over two or three days and spend a couple of nights in the shukubo (temple lodgings) scattered over the mountain or in the village of Haguro-machi , the traditional start of the pilgrimage. Alternatively, Tsuruoka town, a short bus ride to the northwest, provides a convenient base for Dewa-san and has a few moderately interesting historical sights of its own.
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