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When the famous poet Matsuo Basho set out on his travels along the "narrow road to the deep north" in 1689, he commented, somewhat despondently, "I might as well be going to the ends of the earth." Even today, many urban Japanese regard the harsh, mountainous provinces of NORTHERN HONSHU as irredeemably backward. Not that it's all thatched farmhouses and timeless agricultural vistas, but certainly the rural traditions have survived here longer than in most other parts of the country. However, it doesn't take long to discover the region's particularly vibrant crafts industry and huge array of festivals . Nor do you have to delve much deeper to find the rich heritage of folk-tales and evidence of ancient religious practices which give parts of north Honshu a deliciously mysterious tang. Northern Honshu, or Tohoku as it's often called (encompassing the six prefectures covered here with the exception of Niigata), was the last part of Japan's main island to be brought under central control. As such, it boasts more in the way of military sights - ruined castles, samurai towns and aristocratic tombs - than great temples or religious foundations. The one glorious exception is Hiraizumi , a seemingly insignificant town north of Sendai , whose opulent Golden Hall (Konjiki-do) is the highlight of any tour round this region. By way of contrast, perhaps the archetypal north-country town lies not far away, at Tono . It's often referred to as the birthplace of Japanese folklore, where goblin-like kappa inhabit local rivers and fairy children scamper through old farmhouses. Much of this is heavily commercialized, but it's still worth devoting a couple of days to exploring Tono's more secretive shrines with their references to primitive cults. Darker forces are also at work much further north where souls in purgatory haunt Osore-zan 's volcanic wasteland on the hammer head Shimokita Hanto. In summer, pilgrims come here to consult blind mediums, while over on the west coast the holy mountain of Dewa-sanzan is home to yamabushi , ascetic priests who are similarly endowed with mystical powers. The region is also defined by its splendid scenery , ranging from prolific rice-fields and cosseted orchards to the wild, rugged coastline, and the pine-crusted islands of Matsushima Bay . The central spine of magnificent empty mountains provides excellent opportunities for hiking and skiing, notably around Bandai-san in the south and the more northerly Towada-Hachimantai area. Both national parks, these areas are noted for their flora and fauna, including black bears in remoter districts, while Towada-ko itself is a massive crater lake accessed via the picturesque Oirase valley . In Sado-ga-shima , a large island lying off Niigata, dramatic mountain and coastal scenery provides the backdrop for a surprisingly rich culture - a legacy of its isolation and a number of famous, or infamous, characters who were exiled to the island. Although there are good transport links between the main cities, including Shinkansen lines to Tokyo, you need to allow plenty of time to explore the more remote corners of northern Honshu - this is one place where car rental is definitely worth considering. Public buses can be sporadic at the best of times, with many services stopping completely in winter, when heavy snowfalls close the mountain roads. Apart from ski resorts, many tourist facilities outside the major cities shut down from early November to late April. In general, the best time to visit is either spring or autumn, before it gets too busy and while the scenery is at its finest, though the uplands also provide welcome relief from summer's sweltering heat. Note, however, that early August brings thousands of people flocking to Tohoku's big four festivals in Sendai, Aomori, Hirosaki and Akita. If you're travelling at this time, make sure you've got your transport and accommodation sorted out well in advance. JR offers a variety of special rail tickets covering the Tohoku district. JR East operates three schemes similar to the regular JR Pass . Their four-day, five-day and ten-day passes are valid on all JR trains, including the Shinkansen, from Izu and Nagano to the northern tip of Honshu. Of these, the four-day pass is the most useful, since it is valid for any four days within a month, rather than a consecutive period, so you can save  © 2003 by Rough Guides Ltd. as trustee for its Authors. Published by Rough Guides. All rights reserved. Rough Guides name is a trademark of Rough Guides Ltd. Buy the book here!
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it to cover longer train journeys within the region. Note that these passes are only available to those on a "temporary visitor" visa and must be purchased outside Japan. The ten-day Tohoku Wide Pass can be bought in Japan and covers all JR trains and buses within the Tohoku region, including travel from Tokyo but excluding Shinkansen trains. However, the ten days must run consecutively, and to get your money's worth you'll have to take a number of long journeys within this period.
Your Tips For Northern Honshu
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