The plains south of Fukuoka are pretty much built-up all the way to the ancient temple town of Dazaifu , once the seat of government for all southern Japan, but now a pleasant backwater best known for its collection of temples and shrines set against a backdrop of wooded slopes. For centuries, Dazaifu's monks, priests and officials sought solace in the healing waters of nearby Futsukaichi Onsen . Both towns are easily accessible by train and can either be combined as a day-trip from Fukuoka or treated as a stopover en route to Nagasaki. Travelling on from Futsukaichi, the Nagasaki line peels off south on a picturesque run beside the Ariake Sea, while the Sasebo line continues via Takeo , another recommended dip for hot-spring enthusiasts, and through the pottery town of Arita towards Kyushu's west coast.
Arita's 150 kilns punch out the world-renowned Arita-yaki, but it's not a particularly attractive town and, unless you're a real enthusiast or happen to be here during the annual pottery fair (April 29-May 5), there's little reason to stop. At the coast, the line splits again: the southern branch passing the improbable yet intriguing Huis ten Bosch , a replica Dutch town which doubles as a holiday resort, and then skirting round the shores of Omura Bay before dropping down into Nagasaki.
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