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Central Kyushu is dominated by sparsely populated, grassy highlands, in places rising to substantial peaks, which offer some of the island's most magnificent scenery and best walking country. These mountains are relics of ancient volcanic upheavals and explosions of such incredible force they collapsed one gigantic volcano to create the world's largest crater. Today the floor of the Aso caldera is a patchwork of fields like so many tatami mats, and the surrounding uplands a popular summer playground, but at its centre, Aso-san provides a potent reminder that the volcano is still very much alive. Most people come here to peer inside its steaming crater, eruptions permitting, and then scale some of the neighbouring peaks or walk over the lush green meadows at its base. All this subterranean activity naturally means a wealth of hot springs to wallow in, mostly within the caldera itself, although there are a few gems hidden deep in the highlands. One such is the picturesque village of Kurokawa Onsen , squeezed in a narrow gorge on the Senomoto plateau, which makes an indulgent overnight stop on the road to Beppu. The village lies a few kilometres off the Yamanami Highway , the main tourist route between Aso and Beppu, providing a spectacular mountain ride through the Aso-Kuju National Park. Heading in the opposite direction, another dramatic road climbs over the crater wall and heads southeast to Takachiho . Perched above an attractive gorge of angular basalt columns, this is where the mythical Sun Goddess Amaterasu hid, according to legends governing the birth of the Japanese nation. A riverside cave and its neighbouring shrine make an easy excursion, but a more compelling reason to stop here is to catch a nightly performance of the story told through traditional folk dances. The Aso region is one place where having your own transport is a definite advantage; it's perfectly feasible to get around by public transport, but everything just takes a lot longer. From Kumamoto the recommended route is the JR Hohi line across the caldera  © 2003 by Rough Guides Ltd. as trustee for its Authors. Published by Rough Guides. All rights reserved. Rough Guides name is a trademark of Rough Guides Ltd. Buy the book here!
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floor, which is a great journey in its own right, to spend a night or two in Aso Town. It's also possible to visit Aso-san on a day-trip from Kumamoto, or break the journey here for a couple of hours en route to Beppu. If you're heading that way, the Yamanami Highway offers the most scenic option, though the train continues via Oita to Beppu and is a good alternative for JR pass holders on a strict budget. You'll have to overnight in Aso, however, if you're combining the crater with Takachiho.
Your Tips For Aso and the central highlands
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