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Ever since the Buddhist monk Kobo Daishi founded a temple here in the early ninth century, KOYA-SAN , some 50km south of Osaka, has been one of Japan's holiest mountains. On top is an elongated, cedar-filled valley perched 800m above sea level, where more than one hundred monasteries cluster round the head temple of the Shingon sect, Kongobu-ji . This isolated community is then protected by two concentric mountain chains of eight peaks each, which are said to resemble an eight-petalled lotus blossom. Whatever your religious persuasion, there's a highly charged, slightly surreal atmosphere about this group of temples suspended among the clouds. The journey alone, a dramatic ride by train and cable car, more than repays the effort, but Koya-san is also a good place to step out of Japan's hectic city life for a day or two. One of its great delights is to stay in a shukubo , or temple lodgings , and attend a dawn prayer service. Afterwards, head for the Garan , the mountain's spiritual centre, or wander among the thousands of ancient tombs and memorials which populate the Okunoin cemetery , where Kobo Daishi's mausoleum is honoured with a blaze of lanterns. Of course, Koya-san is not undiscovered. Some 6000 people live in the valley and each year thousands of pilgrims visit the monasteries. Even here, loudspeakers, ugly concrete buildings and commercialization intrude, and one or two women travelling alone have complained of some mildly unmonkish behaviour. Be aware also that, while the mountain can be pleasantly cool in summer, winter temperatures often fall below freezing. The biggest festival in Koya-san takes place on the 21st day of the third lunar month (usually mid-April), when all the monks gather for a service at the Mie-do. Everyone's out in force again for Kobo Daishi's birthday (June 15), while during Obon several thousand lanterns light the route through Okunoin cemetery as part of Japan's festival for the dead (Aug 13).
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