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It was an American advisor to Hokkaido who noted the hops growing locally and realized that with its abundant winter ice Sapporo was the ideal location for a commercial brewery. When the first brewery opened in 1876, locals didn't touch beer, so for years Sapporo exported to the foreign community in Tokyo - today the Japanese knock back around seven million kilolitres a year.

The hugely popular Sapporo Beer Garden and Museum (daily 9am-5pm; free) stands just east of the city centre. Beer is still brewed in this grand red-brick building, which dates from 1891, but it's now the company's smallest brewery since much of the building has been turned over to a large, modern exhibition on the brewing process and the history of the company, not to mention several restaurants, pubs and souvenir shops. It's worth going on the free, one-hour tour, as you can pick up a recorded English-language commentary at the beginning, though this often gets drowned out by the guide's enthusiastic use of her mini-megaphone. The best tactic is to lag behind the tour group and catch up at the end, when free samples of the main product can be enjoyed. Look out for the ingenious combined model

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and video display where a fairy emerges from a glass of beer.

The beer garden and museum are roughly a twenty-minute walk east of Sapporo Station. The easiest way to get here is to hop on the Factory bus, which departs every ten minutes or so from in front of the Seibu department store at West Three, North Four. The bus goes via the Sapporo Factory, the first of Sapporo's breweries in the city, converted in 1993 into a shopping and entertainment complex.


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