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NORIKURA KOGEN, an alpine village some 30km southwest of Matsumoto, isn't nearly as crowded as Kamikochi and has some splendid mountain scenery, easy hiking trails and onsen baths. In winter, ski lifts whisk skiers up the lower slopes of Norikura-dake , while in summer the hike to the peak of the same mountain can be accomplished in an hour and thirty minutes from the car park where the Echo Line road leaves Nagano-ken and becomes the Skyline Road in Gifu-ken. This is the highest road in Japan, providing spectacular mountain-top views (the upper section is closed Nov-June). The car park is an hour's drive from Norikura Kogen; there is no public transport on this route. The village is really no more than several widely spread out hotels and lodges. The closest thing to a centre is probably the modern onsen complex, Yukemuri-kan (daily except Tues 10.30am-9pm; Y700), which has both indoor wooden baths and rotemburo with mountain views. The nearby Norikura Kogen Visitor Centre (daily except Wed 9am-5pm; free) has unremarkable geology and nature displays in Japanese only; it's better to head on west towards the ski lifts. Continuing on foot up the mountain for around an hour, you'll reach the start of a short trail to Sanbon-daki , where three waterfalls converge in one pool. An alternative route from the ski lifts is to hike south for twenty minutes to another beautiful waterfall, Zengoro-no-taki , reached along a clearly marked nature trail, with signs in English. In the morning, a rainbow often forms in the spray across this impressive fall. Twenty minutes' hike south of Zengoro, the small reflecting pond, Ushidome , provides a perfect view of the mountains. Continuing downhill from the pond, you can choose to walk towards another small lake, Asami-ko , or to the main picnic area, Ichinose , a picturesque spot at the confluence of two streams. A cycle and walking track leads directly north from Ichinose back to Yukemuri-kan, where the best plan of action is to soak in the rotemburo .
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