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Thirty minutes by local train north of Matsumoto lies the quiet country town of HOTAKA , a base for hiking in the Alps to the west and well-known for its production of wasabi , the fiery green horseradish that, in a paste, accompanies sushi and sashimi. The best way to explore this tranquil area is to pick up a map from the tourist information office (daily: May-Oct 9am-5pm; Jan-April, Nov & Dec 10am-3pm; tel 0263/82-9363), to the right of the station exit, rent a bicycle from one of the many outlets around here (Y300 an hour, Y1500 a day) and head east out of town through the paddy fields. Keep an eye open along the country roads for the charming dosojin , small stones on which guardian deity couples have been carved. Some 2km east of Hotaka is the enjoyably touristy Dai-o Wasabi Farm (9am-5pm; free). This is one of the largest such farms in Japan and the vast fields of wasabi growing in wide, waterlogged gravel trenches make an impressive sight. Within the landscaped grounds you can sample wasabi in all manner of foods, including ice cream, which is surprisingly tasty. Back in Hotaka, a ten-minute walk north of the station along a red-stone paved footpath will bring you to the serene Rokuzan Art Museum (Tues-Sun 9am-5pm; Y500), an ivy-covered, church-like building and a couple of modern galleries. The museum houses the sculptures of Rokuzan Ogiwara, known in Japan as the "Rodin of the Orient". The artist, whose talent was cut short with his death at 32, was clearly influenced by the French master, but he also turned his hand to painting and sketches, some of which are also on display.
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