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Some 75km south of Kanazawa is FUKUI , the modern capital of Fukui-ken, rebuilt after World War II and a severe earthquake in 1948 left the old city in a heap of rubble. There's little reason to linger here when Eihei-ji , the serene "temple of eternal peace" and headquarters of the Soto sect of Zen Buddhism, awaits on a mountainside surrounded by forests, 19km northeast of Fukui. The main approach to Eihei-ji is lined with the usual tacky souvenir shops, but at the top of the hill the temple complex of over seventy buildings blends seamlessly with the trees. Eihei-ji is one of the few ancient temples in Japan where a community is visibly functioning, breathing life into what would otherwise be an attractive but sterile place. Touring around the main seven buildings of the complex, all connected by covered wooden walkways, you'll pass many shaven-headed monks busily going about their daily chores and religious duties. Eihei-ji is closed on several dates throughout the year for special services, so it's wise to check first with Fukui City Sightseeing Information or with the temple (tel 0776/63-3631, fax 63-3640) before setting off. The best way to experience the temple is as a sanrosha , or religious trainee, and to stay the night. Enquiries should be made at least two weeks (preferably a month) in advance to see if the dates you would like to stay are available - if they are, you'll be sent an application form. Overnight visits begin around 3pm, with a bath to cleanse your body in preparation for the instruction. At 5pm a meal of simple vegetarian food is served, after which you'll take part in your first zazen meditation session, lasting around thirty minutes. Next comes a video about life in the temple and then bedtime at 9pm. This might seem rather early, but you'll be up at 3.10am for a second zazen session before the morning service at 5am, followed by a tour of the temple complex. At 8.30am, after a breakfast of rice gruel and pickles, you're free to leave. One night at Eihei-ji costs Y8000, while for Y1000 extra you can take part in the three-night/four-day programme, which follows more closely the rigorous daily routine of the monks. If this sounds all too much, there's a nearby youth hostel , Eihei-ji Monzen Yamaguchi-so (tel 0776/63-3123; under Y3000), where the food is slightly more luxurious, even if the accommodation is quite basic, in large tatami rooms.
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