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Before exploring Chuzenji, a rewarding day can be spent by continuing on the bus to the end of the line and getting off at the onsen village of YUMOTO , which nestles cosily at the base of the mountains on the northern shore of lake Yuno-ko. Five minutes' walk from the bus terminal at the back of the village is the Yu-no-daira , a field where bubbling water breaks through the ground, and the source of the sulphur smell that hangs so pungently in air. Nearby is Onsen-ji , a small temple notable for its onsen bath, which you can bathe in. At the Yumoto Rest House , next to a miniature lake, you can rent rowing boats (50min; Y1000) from May to the end of October - a lovely way to take in the surrounding scenery. To walk around the lake takes around an hour. If you're feeling energetic, it's worth embarking on the easy and enjoyable ten-kilometre (or 3hr) hike from Yumoto across the Senjogahara marshland plateau, past two spectacular waterfalls and back to Chuzenji-ko. First, follow the west bank of Yuno-ko around to the steps down to the picturesque Yudaki Falls, where you might stop off at the lodge serving delicious grilled fish and rice cakes ( mochi ) dipped in sweet miso paste. The trail continues along the Yu-gawa through shady woods, before emerging beside the Izumiyado, a large pond and the start of a two-hour tramp across the raised walkways above the Senjogahara marshland, which blooms with many wild flowers during the summer. Roughly one hour further on, at the Akanuma junction, you can branch off back to the main road, or continue along the riverside path for thirty minutes to the main road and bridge overlooking the spectacular Ryuzu Falls and giving clear views of Chuzenji-ko. At the base of the falls you'll find several giftshops and noodle bars, one of which is superbly located, overlooking the water as it gushes into the lake. A lakeside path continues back to Chuzenji, finally emerging on the main road around 1km before Furatasan-jinja. A more relaxing way of completing this last section is to board a boat at Shobugahama, the jetty near the base of the Ryuzu Falls, and cruise for twenty minutes back to Chuzenji.
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