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Several onsen resorts are dotted along the Kinu-gawa River, which flows through the mountains northeast of Nikko. Avoid the touristy Kinugawa Onsen, where multi-storey concrete hotels line the riverbank, and head instead for Nikko Edo Village (daily: April-Nov 9am-5pm; Jan-March & Dec 9am-4pm; Y4500), a fantasy recreation of eighteenth-century life complete with bewigged samurai guides and entertaining shows, many great for kids. Light-hearted Japanese costume dramas are played out year round at this theme park, where you can easily spend half a day, though to get the jokes in the geisha and comedy shows you'll need to know some Japanese. The live ninja aerial-action display is a real hoot, as is "Hell Temple", a Buddhist take on a house of horrors. To get here from Tobu Nikko Station, go one stop to Tobu Shimo-Imaichi, and change to a train on the Tobu Kinugawa line (Y290), getting off at Shin-Takatoku station (a 5min walk from Western Village, a cowboy theme park) and crossing the road to catch the shuttle bus to Nikko Edo Village, five minutes' ride away.
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