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Frequent buses head towards the main approach to Tosho-gu from in front of both of Nikko's train stations, but the walk uphill to the shrine complex along the town's main street takes only fifteen minutes. At the top of the gently sloping road you'll pass one of Nikko's most famous landmarks, the red Shin-kyo bridge - it's currently undercover, being completely rebuilt over the next few years. The original arched wooden structure first went up in 1636, but legend has it that when the Buddhist priest Shodo Shonin first visited Nikko in the eighth century he was helped across the Daiya-gawa River at this very spot by the timely appearance of two snakes, who formed a bridge and then vanished. If you have time, it's worth turning right at the bridge and walking up to the modern terracotta-coloured Kosugi Hoan Museum of Art (Tues-Sun 9.30am-5pm; Y700), which displays the dreamily beautiful figurative and landscape paintings of local artist Hoan (1920-64). Sometimes concerts are held here in the evenings: enquire at tourist information. The main shrine and temple complex are in the opposite direction; take the lefthand uphill path across from the bridge and you'll emerge in front of the main compound of Rinno-ji (April-Oct 8am-4.30pm; Nov-March 8am-3.30pm), a Tendai Buddhist temple founded in 766 by Shodo Shonin, whose statue stands on a rock at the entrance. The large, red-painted hall, Sanbutsu-do, houses three giant gilded statues: the thousand-handed Kannon, the Amida Buddha and the fiercesome horse-headed Kannon. It's worth paying to view these awe-inspiring figures from directly beneath their lotus-flower perches - entry is included in the combination ticket , which you can buy at the booth outside. Rinno-ji's Treasure House (daily 8am-5pm; Y300), opposite the Sanbutsu-do, has some interesting items on display, but its nicest feature is the attached Shoyo-en, an elegant garden with a strolling route around a small pond.
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