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Some 30km south of Nikko, the village of MASHIKO , with its major pottery museum, numerous pottery shops and over three hundred working kilns spread out around the surrounding paddy fields, makes a rewarding half-day trip en route to Nikko. Although Mashiko-yaki , the distinctive country-style earthenware pottery , has been made in this area since the Nara period (710-784), the village only achieved nationwide fame in the 1930s, when the potter and "living national treasure" Hamada Shoji built a kiln here and promoted the pottery throughout Japan. Hamada's former residence has since been restored and relocated - along with his traditional-style kiln - to the impressive Togei Messe complex (daily except Wed 9am-4pm). The building contains a pottery studio where you can take lessons for around Y1200 for two hours (bookings essential on tel 0285/72-7555) and a museum featuring works by Hamada and Bernard Leach, the renowned English potter who lived for a short time in this village. To reach the complex, you can walk from Mashiko Station along the main street, Jonaizaka, which takes roughly twenty minutes - or longer if you browse the many pottery shops along the way. Alternatively, hop on a bus from Utsunomiya or Mashiko stations ; an announcement in English will let you know when to get off for the complex, which is a ten-minute walk to the east of the bus stop.
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