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North of Tokyo, the urban sprawl starts to disappear as you rise up the densely forested mountains of Tochigi-ken. The highlight here is Nikko , with its fabulous Tosho-gu complex of multi coloured shrines and temples and national park scenery, crowned by the pristine lakes at Chuzenji and Yumoto. On the way to Nikko, anyone interested in ceramics will want to stop off in the attractive pottery village of Mashiko , where you can pick up traditional earthenware pieces or try your hand on the wheel. Northeast of the capital lies Narita , where, apart from the international airport, there stands a large and striking Buddhist temple, a long-established and popular place of pilgrimage.
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