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The second most important but most satisfying of Kamakura's major Zen temples, Engaku-ji (daily 8am-4/5pm; Y200) lies buried among ancient cedars just two minutes' walk south of Kita-Kamakura Station. It was founded in 1282 by a Chinese Zen monk, at the request of Regent Hojo Tokumine, to honour victims (on both sides) of the ultimately unsuccessful Mongolian invasions in 1274 and 1281 . The layout follows a traditional Chinese Zen formula - a pond and bridge (now cut off by the train tracks), followed by a succession of somewhat austere buildings - but the encroaching trees and secretive gardens add a gentler touch. The first building inside the compound, Engaku-ji's two-storeyed main gate, San-mon , rebuilt in 1783, is a magnificent structure, beneath which the well-worn flagstones bear witness to generations of pilgrims. Beyond, the modern Butsu-den (Buddha Hall) houses the temple's primary Buddha image, haloed in soft light, while behind it the charming Shari-den lies tucked off to the left past an oblong pond. This small reliquary, usually closed to visitors, is said to contain a tooth of the Buddha brought here from China in the early thirteenth century. It's also considered Japan's finest example of Song-dynasty Zen architecture, albeit a sixteenth-century replica. The main path continues gently uphill to another pretty thatched building, Butsunichi-an (Y100), where regent Hojo Tokimune was buried in 1284; in fine weather they serve green tea (Y500 including entrance) in its attractive garden. Finally, tiny Obai-in enshrines a pale-yellow Kannon statue but its best attribute is a nicely informal garden with a grove of February-flowering Japanese apricot. On the way out, follow signs up a steep flight of steps to the left of San-mon, to find Kamakura's biggest bell, Ogane , forged in 1301 and an impressive 2.5m tall. From its wooden platform you get a fine view across the valley to Tokei-ji, the next stop.
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