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Travelling from Shimoda, the main road cuts across Izu's upland spine to MATSUZAKI on the west coast. Though spoiled by the high-rise Prince Hotel plonked in its midst, this modest town hides some attractive streets of traditional lattice-work buildings along the riverfront and down by its busy harbour. The town is also an onsen resort, but its main attraction is good-value accommodation . For budget travellers, there's the appealingly aged San'yo-so Youth Hostel (tel & fax 0558/42-0408; under Y3000), set in a traditional garden among rice-fields 3km east of town; Shimoda-Matsuzaki buses stop right outside and you can rent bikes to explore the surrounding area. Otherwise, the best option is Izu-Matsuzaki-so (tel 0558/42-0450, fax 42-0796; Y7000-15,000), at the north end of Matsuzaki's rather grey beach, which offers a choice of comfortable Western or Japanese rooms and communal onsen baths, but no private bathrooms. Finally, Sunset Hill Matsuzaki (tel 0558/42-1515, fax 42-2688; Y10,000-15,000) sits perched on a hill at the north end of town, ten minutes' walk from the bus station, or phone for a free shuttle bus. This is another onsen hotel, with great views over the bay from its large rotemburo (Y1000 for non-residents). All the above places serve food, but if you're looking for somewhere to eat in Matsuzaki, head south round the bay to the port, where Mingei Sabo (7.30am-7.30pm) doubles as a fishmonger and folksy restaurant, serving teishoku from around Y1000. Back along the beach, behind a small pine grove, Hamamiya (daily except Wed) is a more upmarket fish place, or try Tontsu , a homely tonkatsu restaurant three blocks further inland for something more modest.
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