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Just 5km up the road from Matsuzaki, DOGASHIMA is West Izu's prime tourist trap, where hotels, souvenir shops and cafeterias cater to a steady stream of punters. The focus of all this activity is a collection of picturesque limestone outcrops lying serenely offshore. You can admire these islands from various viewpoints around the bay or, better still, from one of the tour boats puttering among their caves and tunnels; boats depart every five to ten minutes (daily 8.15am-4.30/5pm; Y920) from a jetty in front of the main car park. The highlight of the twenty-minute ride is a cave with a large cavity in its roof; afterwards, walk up onto the hill immediately north of the jetty to watch the boats sail through from above. The old part of Dogashima, a traditional fishing village known as Sawada , occupies the bay's south side. It's sheltered by a rocky promontory with a rotemburo (Y500, or Y300 if you're staying in Dogashima; closed Tues) in a spectacular location halfway up the cliff-face on the seaward side; skippers on the tourist boats take pleasure in sailing slowly by the apparently unconcerned bathers. This area is also the best place for affordable accommodation, but otherwise there's no reason to linger. With an hour to spare, Dogashima's Orchid Sanctuary (daily 8.30am-5pm; last entry 4pm; Y1300) is surprisingly interesting, though a little expensive; walk inland from the boat jetty to find the ticket gate. The Sanctuary grows more than 8000 types of orchid, from cosseted miniatures to hardier varieties growing wild in the woods. A well-marked route leads through the extensive park to lookout points over the bay, and then out through the inevitable souvenir shop. The centre of Dogashima is a large car park which also doubles as the bus terminal . The information office (daily 9am-4.30/5pm; tel 0558/52-1268) lies across the main road, north of the tourist jetty, and can help with local maps (in Japanese only) and hotel bookings; if they're closed, try the Tokai Bus office, opposite. Both these places provide information about onward transport . There are hourly buses northeast through Toi to Shuzenji, or ferries which hop up the lovely coast via Toi and Heda to Numazu on the JR Tokaido line. Dogashima is dominated by big, expensive resort hotels , most of which have stunning views and luxurious onsen baths. Pick of the bunch is the New Ginsui-so (tel 0558/52-2211, fax 52-1210; over Y40,000), located on its own beach, five minutes' drive north of town. Prices are more affordable in Sawada fishing village at the southern end of Dogashima, where you'll find dozens of minshuku, such as the cheerful Koharu-so (tel & fax 0558/52-0181; Y15,000-20,000), one block in from the main road. There's no shortage of places to eat if you don't mind the cafeteria-style dining rooms of the souvenir shops. For somewhere less hectic - despite its location on the central car park - Sebama-zushi serves sushi sets from around Y1300, as well as soba and other staples.
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