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Set in a narrow valley just west of National Highway 414, this quiet, one-street village consists mostly of exclusive ryokan which tap into the area's abundant supply of hot water. It's these onsen baths that make RENDAIJI ONSEN worth a visit, though afterwards there are a few meandering back lanes to explore, and some people might want to splash out on a night of luxury. Two or three trains an hour (3-4min; Y160) run between Shimoda - roughly 3km to the south - and Rendaiji Station, from where the village is a short walk west across the river and the Highway. Local buses are slightly less frequent, but most drop you right on the main street; both Shimoda and Tokai buses ply this route (10min; Y250). The most appealing of Rendaiji's onsen is the big public bath (Y1000) at Kanaya Ryokan (tel 0558/22-0325, fax 23-6078; Y10,000-20,000), a traditional place with several pools, including a rotemburo , where many of your fellow bathers will be local families. You'll find the ryokan on the main highway, just north of the village turning; there's a bus stop right outside or it's a couple of minutes' walk to the station. Walking south, peek in at the immaculate entrance to Seiryu-so (tel 0558/22-1361, fax 23-2066, www.seiryuso.co.jp ; over Y40,000) on the left before the bridge; this elegant ryokan is where President Carter stayed in 1979 when he visited Gyokusen-ji - unfortunately, the baths here are for residents only. Opposite Seiryu-so , a road heads west into Rendaiji proper. Here you'll find one of the town's more affordable accommodation options, Sakuraya (tel 0552/22-1966, fax 22-1967; Y10,000-30,000), 200m along on the left and close to the bus stop, where rooms cost from Y6600 per head excluding meals and Y10,500 with dinner and breakfast. When it comes to public baths, the beautiful old Ishibashi Ryokan , also known as Kur Hotel (tel 0558/22-2222, fax 22-2121; Y20,000-40,000), has the best facilities, with rotemburo , jacuzzi and sauna (Y1000). The ryokan is tucked under a small hill on the right as you walk from the highway. Continue past it for few minutes until, almost opposite Sakuraya , you come to a neat bamboo fence belonging to Rendaiji-so (tel 0558/22-3501, fax 23-0373; over Y40,000), a rambling ryokan whose jungle baths - one hosting a 25-year-old hibiscus - provide a steamy finale (Y1000; 8am-8pm).
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