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At Atami trains peel off down the east coast of Izu, cutting through craggy headlands and high above bays ringed with fishing villages or resort hotels. Nearly halfway down the peninsula, ITO port was where Will Adams launched Japan's first Western-style sailing ships , but there's nothing really to stop for until you reach SHIMODA . Off season, this small, amiable town, with its attractive scenery and sprinkling of temples and museums, makes a good base for a couple of days. Its sights revolve around Shimoda's moment of glory, when Commodore Perry sailed his Black Ships ( Kurofune ) into the harbour in 1854 and it became one of Japan's first ports to open to foreign trade . Shimoda people are immensely proud of their part in Japanese history and you'll find Black Ships everywhere, from a replica outside the train station to a customized tourist bus; there's even a Black Ships Festival around the third Saturday in May), when American and Japanese naval bands parade through the streets, followed by the inevitable fireworks. Express trains, known as Odoriko-go (The Dancing Girl) after Kawabata's novel , run direct from Tokyo Station to Shimoda several times a day. However, some trains divide at Atami for Shuzenji, so check you're on the right section, and note also that JR Passes are only valid for the journey as far as Ito; beyond Ito it's a private line down to Shimoda.
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