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Two stops from Miyanoshita on the Hakone-Tozan railway will bring you to Chokoku-no-Mori Station, where the nearby Hakone Open-Air Museum (daily: March-Nov 9am-5pm; Jan, Feb, Nov & Dec 9am-4.30pm; Y1600) is well worth making time for. This wide-ranging museum, spread across 70,000 square metres, is packed with sculptures - works from Rodin and Giacometti to Michelangelo reproductions and bizarre modern formations are scattered across the landscaped grounds, which have lovely views across the mountains to the sea. There's an enclave of 26 pieces by Henry Moore, a "Picasso Pavilion", which houses 230 paintings, lithographs, ceramics and sculptures by the Spanish artist, and four galleries featuring works by Chagall, Miro and Renoir, and modern Japanese artists such as Umehara Ryuzaburo and Takeshi Hayashi. You can rest between galleries at several restaurants or cafes - there's also a traditional Japanese teahouse. A short walk downhill from the museum is a reasonably inexpensive accommodation option, Choraku (tel 0460/2-2192, fax 2-4533; Y10,000-15,000). This modern ryokan has simple tatami rooms, onsen baths and a friendly manager who speaks a little English. Singles without meals are Y5250; with two meals, Y8950.
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