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From either Moto-Hakone or Hakone-machi, you can take a bus back to Hakone-Yumoto. Far more rewarding, however, is the eleven-kilometre hike along part of the Tokaido road, which after the first couple of kilometres is all downhill and takes around four hours. The route begins five minutes up the hill from the Hakone Tozan bus station in Moto-Hakone, where large paving stones are laid through the shady forests. When the path comes out of the trees and hits the main road, you'll see the Amazake-jaya teahouse , where you can rest, just as travellers did hundreds of years ago, and sip a restorative cup of the milky, sweet and alcoholic rice drink amazake , with some pickles for Y400.

From the teahouse, the path shadows the main road to the small village of Hatajuku , where since the ninth century craftsmen have perfected the art of yosegi-zaiku , or marquetry. The wooden boxes, toys and other objects

inlaid with elaborate mosaic patterns make great souvenirs and there are workshops throughout the village, including one right where the path emerges onto the main road. Hatajuku is a good place to pick up the bus for the rest of the way to Hakone-Yumoto if you don't fancy hiking any further. From here the path descends to the Sukumo-gawa and past several old temples, as well as the Tenzan Notemburo , before ending up in the centre of Hakone-Yumoto .

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