I went to sumba island in 2005 on an adventure cause no one had ever heard of it. so this is dated but some info better than none. heres what I found in 2005 -this is a place far far removed from the tourist path, there are a few basic but good hotels in the center of waikabubak, ATM, shops etc, but you are pretty much on your own. ask at hotels for travel info etc.
about a hour flight from bali. taxi from the tiny airport into town. local colorfull buses go around and across the island. slow but intersting and cheap. You can hire private taxis to see the island--bargain!. best to go to a downtown hotel and make arrangements from there. there are some good reefs on the NE coast, no dive operators as of 2005, good empty beaches on the south coast, not much in the way of places to stay. there is a surfing 'resort' Mr Davids, look up East Sumba resort.com. and be patient, may take a while to get a response. I stayed there 2 weeks and found it to be very very basic but david (aussie)was a good host, cook and tall tale teller -it had that robinson crusoe vibe to it. but you kindve need to get there on your own, no shuttle bus!!On the west coast there are a few true resort hotels Nihuwatu resort the best of them but very very pricey. the west coast is very tropical and largely a muslim population, where the east is dryer, desert like in places and more christian dominated. both still practice animism, which is a strange combination. Sumba is best known for the Pasola-look it up on the web, and for its Ikat rugs, very cool! it has great surf but much of the coast is totally inaccesable by land. be very aware of propery rights, tresspassing ect here-ask permission or dont enter! sumba is very traditional and they are protective of their land. there is a mountain range cutting the island in to east and west, and the difference is noticible in many ways. the south coast has very few roads, thats why east sumba resort may be your only choice on the south coast. this is the land that time forgot in many places, the total opposite of kuta beach. it has some intersting history. might be a good stop on the way to timor. I hope to return one day as I enjoyed my time there
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