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At TRIKORA , on the east coast of Pulau Bintan, the beach area covers around 30km of coastline comprising bay after palm-fringed bay. The disadvantage is that, when the tide goes out, it goes quite a long way, leaving dull-looking flats. The accommodation begins 5km north of the small, attractive village of KAWAL , situated at the point where the main trans-island road reaches the east coast, and where many of the houses are built over the river on stilts. Heading north from Kawal, you'll first come to Bukit Berbunga Cottages (no phone; under $5), where a hundred-metre track leads down to the wood-and-thatch cottages with attached mandi, mattresses on the floor and electricity at night. Just 200m north, Yasin's Guest House (tel 0771/26770; under $5) has three types of wood-and-thatch chalets on offer, all with verandahs, and some with mandi. Another kilometre north, Trikora Beach Resort (tel 0771/24454; $25-80) is the most upmarket place on this coast, with attractive gardens, good views, and comfortable bungalows with verandah, air-con and hot water. One of the best beaches on the coastline, TRIKORA TIGA , is about 13km further north and boasts several kilometres of glorious white sand, gently lapped by turquoise waters. At the weekends, several warung open up for day-trippers, but during the week it's pretty much deserted.
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