Touring Tanah Toraja
There's a morbid attraction to many of Tanah Toraja's sights, which feature ceremonial animal slaughter, decaying coffins and dank mausoleums spilling bones. Fortunately, the people and landscape are very much alive, and there's nothing depressing about spending time here. Entry fees of a few thousand rupiah are becoming common at sites around Rantepao. If you speak a little Indonesian, guides are seldom necessary for hiking or visiting villages, though outsiders should really have an invitation to visit a ceremony, which guides can provide. As more participants means greater honour, however, it's also possible to turn up at an event and hang around the sidelines until somebody offers to act as your host. Bemos to just about everywhere originate at Rantepao's Terminal Bolu, though those heading south can be hailed on Jalan Ahmed Yani; the further you're going, the earlier you should start looking for transport. Accommodation and tour agents also rent out bicycles (Rp20,000 a day), motorbikes (Rp50,000), or minibus/car and drivers (Rp90,000). Hikers heading off to villages should carry cigarettes, if only to initiate conversations.
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